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高贵腐烂的苏活区

2 Greek Street,伦敦,W1D 4NB,英国

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贵族腐烂 在羊肉中打开’位于2015年的干德街(Conduit Street),但截至2020年秋天,它在苏活区有一个妹妹。新的分支机构位于希腊街的场所,该场所以前是The Gay Hussar的所在地,这是一家标志性的伦敦餐厅,从1953年开始营业至2018年6月。这是从Aneurin Bevan开始的工党政客中经常光顾的地方,还有各种各样的金光闪闪。这是个大靴子,但Noble Rot有一个令人印象深刻的血统书,由葡萄酒爱好者丹·基林(Dan Keeling)拥有 and Mark Andrew, who operate a wine import business 和 since 2013 have published an excellent wine magazine, also called 贵族腐烂. The head chef at the Soho branch is Alex Jackson, who was formerly head chef of a restaurant called Sardine, 和 prior to that was head chef of Dock Kitchen. He is advised by Stephen Harris of 运动员。除了点菜菜单外,还提供了三道菜的午餐£22.顺带一提,这个名字是指难以捉摸的真菌(灰葡萄孢) that causes grapes to shrivel 和 concentrate their sweetness, 和 is the key to the making of all the world's really great dessert wines. 

酒单上有426个标签,价格从£20 to £4,500,中位数价格为£71,平均零售价几乎是零售价的2倍,这在英国的餐厅标准上确实是非常合理的,在伦敦确实很便宜。名单中的53%£75,下面有十二种葡萄酒£30.就地域覆盖而言,有67%的葡萄酒来自法国,但也有来自匈牙利,智利,希腊及其他地区的有趣葡萄酒。样品参考文献为Koehler-Ruprecht Riesling Trocken‘Kallstadter’ 2018 at £36在高街上找到的一瓶£16,优秀的Hatzidakis Assyrtiko‘Familia’ 2018 at £53与它的零售价相比£30和E Sadie Grenache'Soldaat'2014£65可以让您流连忘返的葡萄酒£在大街48号。对于那些有能力的人来说,1982年的伟大的帕尔默城堡(Chateau Palmer 1982)£312,实际上低于其零售价£367和Penfold's Grange 1987,£当前市场价值为445的葡萄酒£426.为什么其他伦敦餐厅可以’产生这样的葡萄酒单,实际上是在鼓励葡萄酒爱好者,这超出了我。这里的列表富有想象力,价格也很合理,是一种真正的喜悦。

Bread was a choice of soda 面包, red onion focaccia, both of which were made in house, 和 sourdough from the E5 Bakery. The 面包s all had good texture. I began with 防滑鞋底, which is a small Dover sole. This is a signature dish of 运动员 和 of the original 贵族腐烂. The fish was cooked carefully 和 its characteristic mild, buttery flavour came through nicely. The autumn truffle butter with it had little flavour, however. Autumn truffles have just a fraction of the scent of either true black truffles or white truffles, 和 cost corresponding less (13/20).

Roast chicken with 手抓饭, morels 和 vin jaune was the main course. The chicken was Cornish Red 和 was precisely cooked, avoiding dryness, resting in a well-made vin jaune sauce. It would be interesting to see the dish made with a higher-grade bird from France that has more flavour, such as a chicken from Landes or Bresse. The Turkish morels were, unsurprisingly given they were out of season, dried 和, in truth, pretty ordinary, 和 distinctly lacking in flavour. This was a pity as the sauce was very good 和 the chicken was carefully cooked 和 had decent flavour, with reasonably crisp skin. I wonder whether using a mushroom that was in season right now, such as a Scottish girolle, would have improved the dish (just about 14/20). 

A trio of 起司s featured Camembert, St Nectaire 和 Persille de Beaujolais from La Fromagerie, all in good condition. Armagnac爸爸 was rather disappointing, flabby in texture, served with whipped cream. At least it avoided drying out, which is a common affliction with baba, but this was not only a pale imitation of the benchmark version at Louis XV, but was pretty ordinary even by UK standards (barely 11/20). My companion’s pear, hazelnut 和 rosemary tart, which I had a bite of, was significantly better. 

咖啡来自Allpress,这是一家新西兰咖啡商人,在新西兰(尤其是奥克兰)的高端咖啡贸易中占主导地位,并且已经在伦敦呆了几年了。账单到了£每人174,其中大部分是葡萄酒。明星是Maximin Grunhauser Abtbserg Grosse Gewachs Riesling 2018(at£66与它的零售价相比£24),这在很多方面都令人a舌–很棒的酒。如果您有三道菜,并从优秀酒单中分享了一小瓶葡萄酒,那么每人的平均花费可能会更像£75.服务确实很好。 高贵腐烂的苏活区是一个享受美食的好地方,特别是如果您打算沉迷于葡萄酒为主的餐点中,尤其如此。菜单很吸引人,食物虽然对我来说不像最初的Noble Rot场地那么高,但是除了我的甜点以外,还很有趣。酒单令人愉悦,服务也很迷人,因此总的来说这是一个不错的体验。但是,在这个非同寻常的价格点上,很高兴看到菜肴烹饪的一致性更高。也许我的期望太高了,因为Paul Weaver在原始的Noble Rot上做得很好,但是我觉得这里的食物还有改进的空间。

 

 

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